There's no Ravelry link for the fingerless mittens from Friday because I didn't use a pattern, but I did take notes, so here they are:
Yarn/needles/gauge: thick light worsted yarn (I used Lana Grossa something or other), I used size 9 needles. I haven't measured the guage. ;) You can eye-ball it because the sizing is forgiving.
Start by casting on 20 sts (for toddler size; enough to give the length from cuff to top that you want) using my unpatented and probaby ununique easiest provisional cast-on method (it's similar to how you start toe up socks on circular needles, I think I owe Cat Bordhi for that?):
1. Tie a slip knot and place it on one needle. Leave a tail about 24" long.
2. Hold both your needles together, facing the same direction, and lay a piece of waste yarn or ribbon alongside them, too. (Or use a circular needle of the same size that you won't be needing for this project.)
3. Keeping needles and waste yarn/ribbon neatly arranged, wrap your working yarn in a spiral around and around the whole bundle until there are 20 loops on your working needle (the one with the slip knot; count the slip knot as one loop).
4. Pull out the non-working needle when you're ready to knit the first row, but leave the waste yarn in. (Or, if you're using a circular needle, just pull it through so the loops are on the thin cable part of the needle.)
The First Row: The first row is a little bit tricky, but not hard. Just try to keep the very loose cast-on loops about the same size as you're working. Make sure before you take your first stitch that you pick up your yarn so it takes one last wrap around the waste yarn/ribbon (otherwise, you'll just undo everything and curse at me). Knit one stitch into each loop. No twisting the stitches! Just keep them flat, just like normal knitting. I know this feels wierd and loose and you hate it, but it's ok because it will all be over soon.
All the rest of the rows: Knit every stitch. (Actually, slip the first stitch of every row without knitting it. The edge will be nicer that way.)
End when you've knit enough to comfortably fit around the intended hand/wrist (make a tube by matching the cast-on edge up with the stitches on the working needle). End with the working yarn hanging off the opposite edge of the work that your cast-on tail is hanging from.
Finishing: Now, we're just going to graft the live stitches on our working needle onto the provisional cast-on loops being held by our waste yarn/ribbon.
1. Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail four times longer than the width of your knitted square.
2. Thread a blunt needle with the tail you just cut.
3. Put the provisional loops back on to the empty needle (or if you used a circular needle, just push them back onto the needle part). You want the tips of the two needles to be facing the same direction again, just like they were at the beginning. The work should be hanging like a sling underneath the two needles, which you should be holding together in your left hand with the tips pointing right (in order to most easily follow the instructions below). I will assume the needle closest to you has a row of purl bumps below it, not knit v's. This should be the needle you just slipped into the provisional loops.
4. Now, we're going to weave the yarn so that it follows the path of the "missing" row of knitting that will join the two edges:
a. Insert the blunt needle into the first stitch on the needle closest to you (we'll call this the first needle) as if to knit. Pull that stitch off the knitting needle, but leave it on the blunt needle (i.e. don't pull the yarn through yet).
b. Insert the blunt needle into the second stitch on the first needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through so things are snug but not tight (try to match the tension of your knitting).
Repeat steps a and b on the second needle, then again on the first, then again on the second, etc., until you have grafted half of the stitches together (ending after working the second needle).
Now, we're going to make the thumb hole. In the toddler case with my gauge, the hole needed to be three stitches wide. We're going to use Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn bind-off for garter stitch:
1. Drop the first needle for a minute.
2. Pull your blunt needle through the next two stitches on the second needle, purlwise (this should be easy to do in one motion). Don't drop the stitches from your knitting needle yet.
3. Pull your blunt needle through the first stitch, knitwise, and let that stitch come off your knitting needle.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more. Weave in the tail you've been working with, you don't need it anymore.
Now, we need to flip the work around and graft from the other end, then bind off the other side of the thumb hole. If you're not using circular or double-pointed needles, you will need to take the needles out of your knitting (one at a time!) and insert them facing the other direction.
Now, using the tail of the provisional cast-on, work the graft until all the stitches on the side with the thumbhole already done are used up. But the graft has to be worked kind of opposite this time to keep the knits and purls right. Follow the instructions above, but where it says "as if to knit" in step a, read "as if to purl" and where it says "as if to purl" in step b, read "as if to knit".
Bind off the remaining thumb stitches the same way as before and weave in the last end.
One mitt done! The second mitt is an exact copy, no need to worry about left and right.
To wear, the slight longer section before the thumbhole should be the cuff around your wrist.
I'll come back someday when I'm not swamped with work to add pictures and clarify anything that you tell me seems confusing. Or maybe I'll republish this in illustrated glory on my newly registered domain... I'm up to something! Stay tuned! (It will probably be months, though, since I still have a semester and a half of grad school to not fail, so don't hold your breath... but do stay curious!)